Dame Carcas is Calling

 

My first visit to Carcassonne was in the 1980s when I was researching Heretic and Lovers. Although the book won a prize for an unpublished novel, no publisher bought it. However, the section about Jacques Fournier, later Pope Benedict XII, found its way into my novel Murder in Paris. 

The area has been inhabited from Neolithic period through the Romans and served as a place for traders.

Sculpture of Dame Carcas at the city's entrance.

The myth that the original fortified castle was occupied and ruled by Dame Carcas. When the city was under a long siege, people were starving. Carcas gathered all the grain she could find, fed the last pig and threw it off the castle walls.

Thinking that if the pig could eat well after such a long seige, the army gave up and left. Dame Carcas was so happy she rang the castle bells. The army head was told "Carcas Sonne," Carcas calls, and thus the city got its name. 

In the 1200s, the city was a Cathar stronghold.

Viollet-le-Duc's redesigned the city but was much criticized for using slate tiles.

Today the city maintains both a medieval feel and that of a tourist center. 

I've visited with guests too many times to count, even staying at one of the ancient hotels. Always while there, I make sure I eat cassoulet. The recipe follows at the end of this blog.

Driving my daughter to the Toulouse Airport last week so she could get a last look before her next visit, we stopped at the Aire de Carcassonne. French autoroutes have wonderful rest stops. Some include cultural areas with poetry, tributes to artists of all disciplines, play and picnic areas and of course toilets. Some stops also have restaurants and stores to buy food and souvenirs.

We stopped for the view of the city across a large field. There were also many decorative tiles with historical information.

Cassoulet Recipe

Ingredients	Quantity
Haricot beans	1 pound
Pork shoulder or butt	1.5 pounds, cut into pieces
Bacon	4-6 slices
Sausages (e.g., Toulouse)	2-3, sliced
Onion	1, diced
Garlic	4-5 cloves, minced
Carrot	1, chopped
Diced tomatoes	1 can (14 ounces)
Vegetable broth	4 cups
Red wine	1/4 cup
Thyme	Fresh, a few sprigs
Parsley	Fresh, a few sprigs
Allspice	1 teaspoon
Salt and pepper	To ta

Set the oven to 250°F (120°C).

Simmer the haricot beans in water for 20 minutes-

Drain.

In a large bowl, toss the pork and bacon with allspice, salt, and pepper. Some cooks add lamb here.

In a Dutch oven, layer the beans, vegetable broth, diced tomatoes, onion, carrot, garlic, and the seasoned meats. Add thyme and parsley in a bundle for easy removal later.

Cover the pot.

Bake for 2 hours.

Stir in wine.

Uncover.

Bake for an additional hour until everything is tender. 

Dame Carcas, I'll be back soon for cassoulet. Maybe in the fall after tourist season.