Bye Bye Tourists

The New Yorker cover of people showing up in droves then leaving could describe summer in Argelès-sur-mer (ASM) as well.

We are in the last week of the tourist tsunami. When we were at the marché on Saturday, no salmon swimming to their mating grounds could have felt more surrounded. Next Saturday. people will be packing up their cars and heading home. School will be starting in many places.

ASM has tons of camp grounds. The one we were on last week to use its restaurant had over 4,000 people. This is not rough camping. The grounds boast stores, pools, caravans nicer than some homes, tennis courts, other sports facilities. There are camp grounds that provide complete musicals such as Lion King or The Blues Brothers.

All kinds of activities take place in the camps, beach, port and village. Stores are often open 7/7 instead of closing Sundays and/or Mondays.

There's a buzz I love, but by mid-August the buzz becomes a bit tiring.

At the same time many of our friends from Canada, Denmark, Sweden, England, Ireland, Belgium, Scotland, other places in France and elsewhere are here during the summer crazies. Moments with them are to be cherished.

September isn't tourist free. Often people without children come, relishing the slower pace and cooler days although there's still much to do, eat, see. And over the year during holidays such as Tousaint, Christmas and Easter, many of these same people come down to get a booster shot of the pleasures that ASM brings. Many take advantage of a special offer from one of the economy airlines that service the area. We love seeing the surprise of them knocking at the door waving us over at a café as we walk by.

Some cities like Amsterdam and Barcelona want to reduce their tourist traffic. I understand. At the same time local merchants earn most of their annual income during the two summer months. And although there are entertainments, dances, exhibitions, film festivals outside tourist season, there's less of them.

Being a New Englander and loving the seasons, I see the tourist flow a bit like the change of season. Instead of a red leaf falling from the tree, La Noisette stops dinner service, the lines at the chicken seller during the marché are one or two people instead of ten. It is the reverse of the end of June which was marked with the cries of joy when Ingolf, Will, Clare, Pamela, etc. appeared.

I wouldn't have it any other way.